UK Watch Forum banner
21 - 40 of 75 Posts
Discussion starter · #21 ·
Cleaning.

My method is quite a simple one, once disassembled I’ll use peg wood to scrape anything that looks heavy and funky. The jewel holes all get a go through with some sharpened pegwood to loosen anything off.

I’ll fill the ultrasonic with hot water from the coffee machine with just a little tap water and a drip of dish soap. Probably about 80c. Then in goes the case and the crystal, which is taken out after around 30 seconds. The case will have the full 2 minute cycle.

Image


The small parts go into a basket to make them easier to remove once finished. I’ll usually dip screws into the solution whilst it’s going as they aren’t especially dirty and means I can keep a track of what is what.

Image


Once this is done I have a two stage approach, the first is a trip in the ultrasonic in some 99.9% IPA (sealed jar) for everything except the balance and pallet fork. I’ve had quite a lot of luck with this.

Image


Anything clearly very greasy then gets a second go in some Essence of Renata (in an essence jar with ground sealing lid). This is a proper degreaser, and stinks like it too. I have a look when it’s all dried (blow and lint free tissue) and if something is still mucky it’ll go back in again


Image
 
Discussion starter · #22 · (Edited)
And a bit of an update on the rebuild, and a sneak preview - it’s ticking which is more than it did before. But still some issues to address!

Mainspring removed, cleaned with a lint free tissue and given a tiny lick with Moebius 9010. Then most of the residue is wiped away. I hand wound it in, turns out the spring winders I bought are all but useless because I really need something more generic.

The barrel as we established earlier is open and has a wheel on the bottom of it. This was a source of frustration as it came away from its friction fit position. I ended up taking off the wheel and its clip (accidentally) and then reinstalling using a hand pusher. No doubt a staking set would have been better but I’ve swung the tools I have. I’ll take pictures in the inevitable future disassembly of this!

Image

Image


I won’t post too much of the reassembly. Mostly the opposite of disassembly but with oiling. I’ve given a stab at using the right type in the right places, 9010, HP1300 and 9504 grease.

Image


Image


Amplitude and running was still very poor until I lubricated the pallet pins and now we have a fairly good runner, though looks well off time in the slow direction. The canon pinion had no friction when I removed it, I’m assuming it is meant to be like this? But there does seem to be some drive issues to the hour and minute hands which needs further investigation.

Something non functional to something I’ll call a win is quite satisfying.
Image
 
And a bit of an update on the rebuild, and a sneak preview - it’s ticking which is more than it did before. But still some issues to address!

Mainspring removed, cleaned with a lint free tissue and given a tiny lick with Moebius 9010. Then most of the residue is wiped away. I hand wound it in, turns out the spring winders I bought are all but useless because I really need something more generic.

The barrel as we established earlier is open and has a wheel on the bottom of it. This was a source of frustration as it came away from its friction fit position. I ended up taking off the wheel and its clip (accidentally) and then reinstalling using a hand pusher. No doubt a staking set would have been better but I’ve swung the tools I have. I’ll take pictures in the inevitable future disassembly of this!

View attachment 146931
View attachment 146930

I won’t post too much of the reassembly. Mostly the opposite of disassembly but with oiling. I’ve given a stab at using the right type in the right places, 9010, HP1300 and 9504 grease.

View attachment 146936

View attachment 146935

Amplitude and running was still very poor until I lubricated the pallet pins and now we have a fairly good runner, though looks well off time in the slow direction. The canon pinion had no friction when I removed it, I’m assuming it is meant to be like this? But there does seem to be some drive issues to the hour and minute hands which needs further investigation.

Something non functional to something I’ll call a win is quite satisfying.
View attachment 146937
Thank you - loving this thread. Great work!
 
Nice thread and great skills🤙. I’ve a couple of non runners you can have if you like. One runs but the stem is too long so I never wore it and the other is an auto that runs and stops at date changeover. You’re welcome to them if you want them👍. There’s a jump hour watch too in the box. That ran for a week then stopped and never worked again. Just drop me a pm if you want them to mess with
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
And no parts left over :cool:
Thanks, very interesting, is it possible to tighten up the canon pinion some how?
Possibly though not sure if that is needed. There are a number of wheels which mesh, but I wasn’t entirely happy with how they did. So it may just be something has come unseated. Either way it’ll be something that I can look at.

Number two that I got is something that will be a bit more familiar to me. Running but had issues with time setting. Movement was a nightmare to get out because of a melted plastic movement ring which I presume is part of the waterproofing. To be honest a nice fat o-ring can go in place if I can’t get the right size gasket.

The dial is immaculate but it has a scuffed up crystal which needs some attention. It’s also a bit bigger than I expected so likely won’t be staying.
 
Discussion starter · #27 · (Edited)
Nice thread and great skills🤙. I’ve a couple of non runners you can have if you like. One runs but the stem is too long so I never wore it and the other is an auto that runs and stops at date changeover. You’re welcome to them if you want them👍. There’s a jump hour watch too in the box. That ran for a week then stopped and never worked again. Just drop me a pm if you want them to mess with
Thank you! Will drop you a pm later.

The deal is though that you have to tell me which is your favourite of them, and if I can fix it it’ll find its way home :). I’ll never sell a watch someone sends me, so giveaways or charity raffles and everyone gets to benefit.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
Not the Ingersol, but having to get creative.

I appear to have lost the pin that secures a mainspring. Not sure what has happened or where it has gone. Said watch (This Tissot https://www.thewatchforum.co.uk/threads/historically-important-watches.173923/) runs (SUCCESS!) but timing is all over the place. The hairspring is also bent which may be what caused some of the issues with it stopping and being boxed so long.

Bad microscope shot with the phone. The hairspring needs work and I’m building up to this. But micro engineering took place this morning

Image


It started life as a movement assembled stem. I think for @Bricey’s Citizen diver.
Image
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
A deceptively good shot of the spring previously. Big brave pill, collet off and the arrival of new tweezers from Aliexpress (amongst other things) and away we go to straightening.

Getting there. But I’m walking away (like Craig David) for now. Some good progress however it is out of flat and round still.

Image
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
This thread jumps about a bit, so apologies if anyone is trying to follow. More of a diary or portfolio for me than a linear start/finish.

AS 2066
The other watch that I picked up was rather nice featuring a nice Swiss movement. I have a love and hate relationship with AS movements. They are wonderful to put together and line up everything very well but the date springs are my nemesis. They just end up all over the place for me despite how hard I try.

The date and day would set however there was no ability to set the time. This movement has a sliding pinion on the second wheel (great wheel) to do this. It was gummed up with old lubricant. Finally it freed after a couple of trips in the ultrasonic steeped in Renata and with some persuasion with tweezers. I’m now confident that this will work when synthetic lubricant is used.

The offending part, and some other information from elsewhere online TimeZone : TZ Showcase Archive » Repair question about AS 2066 movement

Image


I also finally managed to use a spring winder for its intended purpose rather than sitting in a box, really a poor tool choice on my part. However by drilling out one of the bodies I’ve successfully used a different arbour/winder combination to seat the mainspring for this. Result. I’ve my eyes on some adjustable K&D ones which I think will better suit my needs but they tend to be expensive, only second hand and mostly in the USA.

Image


In other tool news we’ve been discussing hand setting with pusher tools. This might also be of interest @Charlie the collector and @Callum_5464. Sticky sticks. Tacky enough to hold but release very easily.

Image
 
I've had two watches with the AS 2066, both Talis models, both with Kif Trior shock protection. The first one, with the movement signed Solvil et Titus, was supposed to have been serviced, but the calendar wheels began sticking after not every long. Took it to a local repairer, as it turned out, between lockdowns. It took forever to get it back, they said they had difficulty getting the parts. It did work okay after that.

The second one came with a broken stem. I thought that would be easy to replace and it was. However, after a while it became very stiff to set the time and eventually it wouldn't move the hands at all. I wondered if that's how the original stem got snapped. I sent that one to another repairer. He said the clutch wheel, winding pinion and set lever spring were all badly worn and had to be replaced. Turned out an expensive repair and I nearly didn't go through with it, but I like the watch, so I gritted my teeth and paid up.

I wish I had the determination and patience to do that kind of repair myself, but I don't. I'm very wary of buying another AS 2066 to be honest.

This is the repairer's picture of the original clutch wheel.
Image
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
The AS2066 is back together and working again. The time setting still isn’t perfect. There is less friction and the canon pinion is now free, but I need to look further at lubrication points. On close inspection the clutch wheel is in a similar but not as bad state as that of @spinynorman’s example. I’ve ordered a new one for what seems like an obtuse amount of money for such a small part however it is new and in blister. Fingers crossed it sorts the issue. It’ll stay in its current state, without the date assembly until the part arrives.

I could do with a few more parts trays I think…
 
The AS2066 is back together and working again. The time setting still isn’t perfect. There is less friction and the canon pinion is now free, but I need to look further at lubrication points. On close inspection the clutch wheel is in a similar but not as bad state as that of @spinynorman’s example. I’ve ordered a new one for what seems like an obtuse amount of money for such a small part however it is new and in blister. Fingers crossed it sorts the issue. It’ll stay in its current state, without the date assembly until the part arrives.

I could do with a few more parts trays I think…
Good luck, I hope it works.
 
Discussion starter · #37 · (Edited)
@Littlelegs was kind enough to feed my habit hobby and sent four watches my way to play with.

Tackling easy first, the stem on this Tressa was too long. A few minutes measuring, cutting and filing and we are good. This watch runs but could probably do with a service anyway.

Image


For fun I put it on the Weishi and gave it a whirl. Runs very nicely after some quick adjustments, from +85 with a beat error of 2.2 to this in just a short time. I could go further but it’ll get serviced anyway so will need to be carried out again.

The unit is in the floor In the hall as I need to assemble more sockets in the office and don’t want to scramble under the desk today… Please don’t judge the discoloured grout, I detest this tiled floor, a product of the previous owners, and not something we want to tackle right now.

Image


The stud carrier (for beat error adjustment, to the right of the balance jewel) is a way over on its adjustment so I will look to tackle that when I reassemble.

Image
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
I still have the seiko 5 with the 7s26 if you want to try and get it running and then either do a giveaway with it or keep it
More than happy to to take a look Charlie.

On the Tressa, it’s run very nicely over night. I was tempted to just leave it be, but a good look under the microscope shows a little rust in places which ain’t of too much concern but the pivots are dry and crusty. It just won’t do. And as it’s an AS movement, 1940/44 in this case, I know it will be a straightforward service.

A trinary scope with a camera would make for much better viewing pleasure for you all, but the Baker Sterimag does a fine job considering the price and simplicity. I do need to get a light source on it sorted through. A simple dimming, diffused LED would likely be just fine.

Image
 
More than happy to to take a look Charlie.

On the Tressa, it’s run very nicely over night. I was tempted to just leave it be, but a good look under the microscope shows a little rust in places which ain’t of too much concern but the pivots are dry and crusty. It just won’t do. And as it’s an AS movement, 1940/44 in this case, I know it will be a straightforward service.

A trinary scope with a camera would make for much better viewing pleasure for you all, but the Baker Sterimag does a fine job considering the price and simplicity. I do need to get a light source on it sorted through. A simple dimming, diffused LED would likely be just fine.

View attachment 149720
Excellent, I’m glad it’s finally getting fettled and it’s interesting to learn what’s actually wrong with it. Other than the extra long stem obviously 😂. Hopefully it’ll run like a dream and you or someone else can enjoy it👌
 
21 - 40 of 75 Posts