Daveyboyz

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About Daveyboyz

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  1. My friends father was apprenticed by Ingersoll 40 years ago...but they closed down their factory in late 70's or early 80's, I am not sure if the modern incarnations have any relation to the previous. Obviously when names are bought up (like Blancpain or any other old brand name) the new owners wish to take advantage of some historical reminiscence or emotional connection to the name. I feel something for the name Ingersoll but I have no idea why or if its justified.
  2. I did, but it was my own fault, I put my thumb through one trying to get the back on... standing in a doorway with the watch against one doorframe and me against the other was always a technique that seemed to get any stubborn watch back on, but not on that particular occasion. I figure I put about 120kg of pressure into it, but it was a watch with a large diameter, and didn't like it.
  3. [ytube] Clock that winds itself is as different as I can do... I haven't touched this since the clocks chanced and it is still keeping time very well (though the regulation is slowing it down almost as much as it can... so not sure why it wants to race)
  4. However much I can afford, there is no limit except what I am able to spend without going into debt... but even then it isn't a hard and fast rule... if I could buy a watch that is worth more than it will cost me I could conceivably borrow the money and pay it off, or own for a while and sell for a profit. For me it is not the amount of money that is important but whether the piece itself can justify that amount of money. I would not endanger my wellbeing in order to acquire a watch but I would not constrain myself if there was a practical solution to allow me to buy a piece regardless of its price. In my opinion though when you start getting to watches running into 5 or 6 figures there is a rule of diminishing returns. A Lange might be nice but in truth I would chose instead a couple of cheaper pieces... In many other hypertheticals I would prefer multiple more bite sized watches. The only exception I could see is if I decided I needed a tourbillon movement in which case it would be necessary to have a watch in those sort of high price ranges... otherwise I would prefer a couple of more modestly priced watches. If my numbers came up I would be only to happy to shop at Lange though...
  5. The number of winds can be different based on the amount of power reserve... here's my general advice. If you are going to wear it everyday then get in a routine of winding it every morning. To wind it rotate the crown between thumb and forefinger with the watch held in your left hand (if you are right handed) rather than trying to wind it while it is on your wrist (that puts pressure on the stem...) wind it gently and if you feel any tightness stop winding immediately as this means the main spring is fully wound. On some of my watches this is 15 winds and can power the watch for 48 hours... I suggest to you that you wind conservatively, counting the winds perhaps and observe how long the watch runs for... many of my watches I don't fully wind as I know that even half wound it will run for a full day, or just for the evening if I am dressing up to go out somewhere. Like anything you haven't done before the simple act of building experience will make it all familiar to you. Some people believe that you should wind the opposite way a half turn when done to "even things out" though I always thought it a superstition... if you wind the wrong way there is a ratchet mechanism so I am not sure how that is any benefit but it wont damage the watch.
  6. A good looking selection. The Omega, Sarb and the Citizen all have characteristics which contribute greatly, for me the others not as much but they are all pretty. I would be trying to add a nice vintage piece and maybe something which isn't round... but this is what I love about SOTC posts - we all have different methods of choosing how and what to collect.
  7. Well the terms of the question are highly debateable... what constitutes affordable and what is meant by favourite? (Different criteria can easily be applied) Personally I don't do budget watches, I would end up with too many but I have some opinions for those who don't like a watch purchase to feel like a financial kick in the balls. Both Seiko and Citizen offer extremely reliable watches that are durable for very little money indeed. I couldn't argue against Casio either. Tissot/Oris/Certina/Omega offer Swiss quality on a budget especially when consider vintage offerings.
  8. I asked the question the other day about the pro's and cons of column wheel chronographs as apposed to cams chronographs, and the silence was deafening, therefore I thought I would look into it myself and share my findings... well it turns out that things are more complicated than I first thought and there are three main types of chronograph not just the two. 1. Column wheel chronograph. 2. Cam actuated 3. Lever actuated I knew before I asked the question that the watch snobs always want to have a column wheel chronograph but I didn't know why. Well it turns out that its the more expensive "haute horology" way to solve the problem of protecting the gear train from tearing itself apart if things get out of synchronization for instance if the reset mechanism was applied while everything was running. In layman's terms it co-ordinates that each function of the chronograph part works without interfering. (Photo for educational purposes under fair use) The column wheel looks akin to the battlements on a castle tower, the pushers control this wheel and the various parts of the chronograph are manipulated by the fingers that fall into or out of the gaps between these battlement like teeth. It is a fine solution to the problem but is expensive and labour intensive to produce and hence it is only seen on the higher end timepieces... it is a feature of the F.Piguet movement used in my Vacheron Overseas... however an easier and simpler mechanism is used on my Omega speedmaster... these started off using the column wheel in the earlier models (321 movement) but with the 861 and the 1861 movements dropped in it favour of the cheaper cam operated arrangement. Some people claim "the operation is smoother with the column wheel" but in truth there is very little functional advantage - NASA still saw fit to licence the cam actuated design for space flight... Again with no copyright infringement intended and being used for educational purposes the photo's of the original Lemania column wheel movement and the revised 1861 type moevements. Here you can clearly see that where the column wheel appears on the first diagram there is just a strange shaped piece of metal with a screw through it. Well this performs the same function for a fraction of the price as it doesn't require as much fiddling and hand adjustment and the pinion can be built using simple pieces of stamped metal. In the following photograph you can see what I presume to be the lever actuated type of movement, I can't quite explain its operation but a cam or column wheel cannot be identified in the movement, and things are operated by a series of simple levers. There are relatively few column wheel movements being produced these days (El Primera, Seagull ST19, some Lemania and F.Piguet movements) do still use this more traditional technique. The ETA/Valjoux 7750 and Lemania 5100 use cam actuated mechanisms and the Landeron 48 and family of movements and the Hueur 11 are lever actuated. I guess the bottom line here is that each of these methods is capable of doing the job perfectly well and so there is no real debate to be had. Though there is a debate whether meshing gears should be used to operate the function of the chronograph or the more modern friction coupling method. In that debate there are numerous technical pro's and cons to be considered, however the cam wheel thing is just prettier but technically achieves the same end.
  9. Chicken Tikka Masala, I like it served just with a plain nann bread to mop up all that sauce. Or if I fancy something a little warmer Chicken Jalfrezi and rice.
  10. I agree, sub seconds is better IMO. Slightly off topic but I have two chronographs...one is a column wheel and the second is a cams chronograph... I know the former is preferred but I don't really understand why, anyone care to elaborate?
  11. What kind of watch is it? Temp fluctuation can effect the time keeping of quartz watches (minimally) not sure about mechanical but I cant see a small amount of heat effecting anything? I wouldn't be too concerned personally.
  12. I think too big if anything (since it doesn't curve with the wrist and leaves a gap.) ...But an attractive enough dial. Congrats
  13. How fast are eggs then?
  14. Thats why the event you time should be less than one minute if the scale only has readings for the first minute. I seem to recal some watches with a duel reading (for events up to two minutes) in this case it has two figures (making this up at random it might say 300/25 you read one figure first time around and the second figure after the first minute elapsed) I may be wrong... The point is make sure the event you measure takes longer than 7 seconds and less than a minute.