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Sir Alan

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About Sir Alan

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    25 Jewel

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    Watches (of course!!)

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  1. Sir Alan

    Seiko 6138 & 6139 Chronographs

    6139/6138 along with 7Axx based watches form a large part of my collection and I really like them, both externally and internally (their movements). I couldn't resist picking up another Pogue a couple of weeks ago and at the weekend it had the full treatment I agree that prices continue to increase but I still think that good examples represent real value for money.
  2. Sir Alan

    Seiko Pogue

    Your best bet for the crystal is a Sternkreuz 330W18GN equivalent (XMD 330.821) CousinsUK sell them - as do ebay sellers (at an inflated price). If you're interested in getting it serviced (should you win the auction) then contact me, I've done a LOT of these now.
  3. Sir Alan

    Seiko Pogue

    That looks a very nice example.
  4. Sir Alan

    Seiko H556-5050 'burke'

    All screws are required as they ensure (when correctly tightened) that electrical contact is made where required. There is also a clip at the top of the movement (assuming the LCD panel is at the top) that needs to be correctly engaged with the plastic tab of the mainplate - this ensures that the two zebra strips that drive the LCD panel are in contact with the PCB. If your movement is missing the screw by the battery terminal then this might be the simple cause of the problem.
  5. Sir Alan

    Seiko H556-5050 'burke'

    Hi Scott, all I can suggest is that the movement is stripped down. They are very fiddly, being a sandwich of both plastic and metal parts and don't like battery leak. Is there any evidence of either battery leak or rust in yours?
  6. Sir Alan

    Dropped my Sarb033

    I suspect that the shock of hitting the floor has caused the regulator arm(s) to move - they can only move in one of two directions (clockwise or anti-clockwise). Any movement (in either direction) will affect the timing (Beat Error) and / or the Rate (gaining or losing time). If this has happened, regulating the watch to find the optimal position for these arms should be straightforward. A major impact (as described) may have caused damage to the movement but this would only be apparent when the movement was inspected and put on a timegrapher. The fact that it is running is a positive sign.
  7. Sir Alan

    Poljot 3133 chronograph

    Looking much better now.
  8. Sir Alan

    Thursday 28/12/17 Automatics

    Hmmmm. This failed the quartz tag yesterday and the automatic tag today.
  9. Sir Alan

    Poljot 3133 chronograph

    I did the dial baton lume yesterday using Bergeon green lume. The old lume just slid off so no dust or bits to get in the movement. It turned out OK, but it didn't really match the hands (though it did glow nicely in the dark). So today I popped into town to visit the Games Workshop. The best match seemed to be this: I've just cleaned the lume off the batons (easy as it hadn't dried hard yet) and then mixed some white lume with the green paint and applied it. I think this is going to look much better. I also re-did the triangle on the inner dial ring.
  10. Sir Alan

    Wednesday Quartz 27th December

    First outing for this today
  11. Sir Alan

    Poljot 3133 chronograph

    As this is the first 3133 movement I've worked on, it took me a bit longer. 30 mins - initial case stripdown and clean 30 mins - crystal polish (wet&dry then polywatch) 15 mins - inner dial ring re-lume 60 mins - movement stripdown 90 mins - movement clean (part 1) 300 mins - movement re-build (including clean part 2) 60 mins - hand re-stake and paint 30 mins - dial baton re-lume so all told about 10 hours. I take numerous photographs during the whole process. I also don't rush - I like doing the best job I'm capable of. On the stripdown stage this is essential on a movement I'm not familiar with. I refer to the pictures during the re-build phase.
  12. Sir Alan

    Poljot 3133 chronograph

    Gory red was like blood - very red when wet, but when dry a rather boring red / brown. so, I stripped this off and went with this instead I've recently re-fitted the sub-dial hands and then the re-painted chrono seconds hand I've not pressed the (polished) crystal home, I'll only do this when I've re-lumed the dial batons.
  13. Sir Alan

    Poljot 3133 chronograph

    As I was stripping the watch down, I had another grrr moment when the chronograph hands and the sweep seconds hand all detached from their tubes - leaving the tubes sitting on the shafts and me thinking life just got a bit more complicated even before starting on the movement itself. Reading up on the various servicing threads I saw that this is quite a common issue. It was still a pain though!! Luckily the parts from Lampoc came with the sub-dial hands (sweep second and chrono minute) but not the chrono seconds hand. A new one is available, but I decided to try and fix the original one first. First clean off the old paint and oxidisation that's better Out with my staking set (the only tool in this situation). The idea being to press the hand back onto the tube that's a good start, but there is still a gap between the tube and the hand (on the underside) meaning the hand hasn't pushed all the way onto the tube so next I use a stake with a hole in the middle then finally the thinnest flat stake that's better next job is to paint it after Christmas lunch ......
  14. Sir Alan

    Poljot 3133 chronograph

    Time to start the rebuild dial screws and dial in place (cleaned up, but not re-lumed yet. I need to figure out how to get a green lume to match the hands) as I don't have a movement holder, I decided to re-case the movement before fitting the hands I had previously cleaned the case and re-lumed the triangle on the dial ring then I cleaned and re-fitted the hour & minute hands And that's where I got to before a rather splendid family Christmas Eve meal and fun.
  15. Sir Alan

    Poljot 3133 chronograph

    It took me a while to figure that I needed to slacken the screws holding the plate for the chronograph complication to tease the spring in place. but things got very frustrating when I tried to fit the operating lever. This is a three part affair, two parts hinged together with a spring mounted on top of the first. I could not figure out how to mount these in a way that allowed them to actually work (all would be tinkerers know that its always possible to fit a part, but fitting the part in the correct place, with the correct orientation and where necessary ensuring that the part engages correctly with other parts can be rather 'challenging'). It took me a 'while' to figure out how to do it correctly. Now I know I'm sure that future rebuild of this movement will be easy. I'm pleased to say that the numerous remove/refit iterations didn't inflict any damage to the parts or the rest of the movement (always a real risk). I didn't take any pictures during this phase, I was too busy struggling. But, after a couple of breaks (mince pies, not broken parts!!) I got to this point a fully operational movement That still runs nicely (I've adjusted the lift angle on the timegrapher to the correct 51 degrees)

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