Jump to content

Padders

Member
  • Content count

    1,674
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    100%
  • Country

    United Kingdom

Community Reputation

1,371 Awesome

1 Follower

About Padders

  • Rank
    Chronograph

Contact Methods

  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Location
    Birmingham
  • Interests
    Watches, cameras cars etc

Recent Profile Visitors

2,299 profile views
  1. That beat error does look v high suggesting the balance might need looking at but as noted above it depends on the watch. Lift angle varies a lot. If you set the lift angle wrong, the amplitude reading will be off.
  2. The new acquisition

    Having had a brief look, I think that model is a 166.0032
  3. The new acquisition

    Glad to hear it. These are pretty robust movements and if it looks clean that is a good indication. The 752 is part of a large family of very well designed 1960s movements which include the 552 and 565 which are used in much more valuable pieces, it is in essence a day-date version of the date only 565. Some info: http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&Omega_752 Here is the original user manual for the movement showing how to change the date. http://www.old-omegas.com/752.html
  4. The new acquisition

    You bought it then? I am glad, I think it looks good and i really don't think the price ballpark you mentioned was excessive for a piece of this class. Did you ever figure out what the case number is? It is the 6 or 7 digit number stamped on the inside of the case back.
  5. Saturday newbies post 1990

    I have been guilty of being a bit sniffy about Bremonts but that really does look good I agree.
  6. Advice needed on vintage Seamaster

    Its a 50 year old watch in decent honest unrestored condition. Marks do occur on dials regularly, probably from clumsy servicing or more often shattered or broken crystals, subsequently replaced. You aren't going to find too many pristine dials this age that haven't been repainted. No offence Jonny but form what little I know of you, I think we may have differing opinions on where quality lies in watchmaking, you seem to like modern Breitling and Tag, I can't say that I do. You seem to think older Omegas like this are over rated, I don't. Perhaps we should stick to what we each like.
  7. Advice needed on vintage Seamaster

    Not really sure I follow you, are you saying that £500 for the 60s models like this one is pricey? If you are referring to the SMP as the 15 year old model, these are now routinely more like £1300-1500 for the autos, you may think that is expensive but a 1960s Omega diver such as the 165.024 would now be circa £6-8K and upwards so age isn't the only factor in saying what is valuable and what is not.
  8. Advice needed on vintage Seamaster

    Yes absolutely, a 1960s Omega when healthy and recently serviced can perform within +10s per day, some do a lot better. You are right to allow a little more leeway with a vintage piece but that is not to excuse poor performance caused by inadequate maintenance.
  9. Advice needed on vintage Seamaster

    Looking again, I don't actually think that movement is all that clean to be honest, I would suggest that a clean and service may be needed at some point. Those copper coated Omega movements come up pristine when cleaned properly during a service, any tarnish at all suggests it hasn't been cleaned in years. The year warranty is encouraging but it may just mean that the seller has put it on the machine, seen that it isn't too terrible and is taking a punt on it lasting 365 days before showing signs of distress. I would honestly prefer a serviced watch to a warrantied watch.
  10. Advice needed on vintage Seamaster

    Those hands were current from the late 1960s through to the late 70s. 27m serial is around 1968 so they could well be right. The text font is correct for mid-late 1960s also. I think that looks pretty straight and the price isn't too silly. A shot of the inside of the caseback would answer a lot of questions though as noted above.
  11. Omega SM P/O GMT or Rolex explorer polar?

    Incidentally, a lot of my criticism of the 40mm Exp-II design may well have been sorted in the newer 42mm version, which I think is what the OP picture shoes. I forgot the mention the 40mm had poor lume also next to the Omega dials, this clearly looks improved on the newer version. It is a missed opportunity if so since 40mm felt like the perfect size for a sports Rolex.
  12. Omega SM P/O GMT or Rolex explorer polar?

    I made the opposite choice, had a black dial mid 2000s Exp-II and a 2201.50 PO and in the end flogged the Rolex, it just didn't feel special enough what with the crystal glare from the uncoated flat sapphire, the old fashioned bracelet and several other minor details which the PO just bettered. I also had a SMP GMT which I also sold so perhaps it was the whole GMT thing that ultimately I didn't buy into.
  13. Breitling Bracelet

    In my experience, Breitling are notorious for inflated service costs, ridiculous even. It may be best to get it back from them and try an authorised service centre like Watchworks in Bristol who will have access to parts but don't scalp quite as brutally. This is one of the main reasons I avoid Breitling, any service work is eye watering, even on the quartz models. The other option is to buy a replacement clasp or bracelet on ebay and fit it yourself, it won't be cheap but it won't be quite as horrific.
  14. Tudor VS Omega Present and past

    Perhaps I should have used dimension in the singular
  15. My thoughts precisely, see two posts up lol
×